Model Research Labs

 

NON-HAZARDOUS FLUORESCENT DYE PIGMENT

Non-fade in direct sunlight

This material is a finely ground, pure pigment and will mix with just about any type of paint you may choose. We have tested it in model airplane dope, epoxy, and polyurethane, oil based paints, and alcohol. Most modelers use clear dope or epoxy as the carrier for his dye. It will not mix in water, water based paints can usually be colored with food coloring.

We use this material to provide high intensity colors and greatly increased visibility of our models. The majority of our use has been on clear Mylar, white tissue, or silk coverings. The result in sunlight is similar to a fluorescent fight in the dark. Think Bright Colors and Lightweight.

What ever you use on it on, be sure to allow plenty of sunlight to shine through the entire surface. The best results were obtained with wings and tails that are totally clear on the top surfaces, the pigmented paint used only on the bottom surfaces of the wing and tail. If you do chose to apply this material to an opaque surface, you will need to first spray on a light undercoat of bright white paint to reflect the available light. Don't get carried away with the paint job, Airplanes are suppose to fly Keep the weight down!!!

STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE THE EASY WAY

  1. Add the appropriate thinner to fill the small bottle. Put the lid back on the bottle and mix by shaking
  2. Pour the contents of this small bottle into a GLASS container of at least 16 oz capacity. Add another 4 oz of thinner and shake well. Note; this material is not suitable for water based paints
  3. Add 8 oz of the clear paint you are using as a base and shake well. You now have a translucent, fluorescent color mix that is 50% thinner, 50% paint dye and it is easy to spray. This will produce a lightweight high visibility colored model.
  4. When using epoxies, catalyze the paint after step 3 and catalyze only the amount needed.
  5. On Polyspan covered models, we apply the coloring in the second or third coat of dope.
  6. On white tissue or silk covered models, the coloring should be applied as one of the finish coats, but not necessarily the final coat.
  7. Most Modelers using the .00025 and .0005 Mylar covering are simply spraying on a light coat on the bottom of the completed wing and tail after the model is covered.
  8. If you are having trouble spraying clear dope, it is probably because you are using too fast of a thinner. Good thinner cost about $20 per gal. The $6 gal thinners do not have retarders and the dope dries before it flows out on the surface.

Life is a lot simpler if you do not attempt to remove any of this powder from the little bottle. But if you must check out the powder may we suggest you first remove all your clothing, take plenty of soap and water and go out behind the bam on a very calm windless day and proceed at your own risk. Treat it like a fine dust that clings to everything, AND DO NOT BREATH THE DUST. Fortunately this material is almost totally non-hazardous and non-toxic. Meets EPA, TSCA inventory list 40-CFR-3 72, 26 1, & 71 0. Contains 0. 02% formaldehyde. If an accident should occur and you spill it on the carpet, a Professional carpet cleaner can remove it from a normal light beige carpet using only soap and water for just about $165.78.

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